The Vineyard Press:
Restaurant Wine Lists Demystified



May 6, 2004


Hello Wine Enthusiast,

I'm very excited to be welcoming you to the first edition of 'The Vineyard Press.' This newsletter is designed for people like you; someone who enjoys wine and all its pleasures but would certainly like to know more – and the more entertaining and lighthearted the approach, the better.

'The Vineyard Press' is a free service from Cork and Karma that contains no ads - and the more people reading it, the merrier. I offer information and insights into the wide world of wine that will hopefully allow you to appreciate its lighter side – it really isn't all that serious…especially after your second drink!

As always, I'd love to hear your comments or feedback on how to improve this newsletter. You can email me at: sandi@corkandkarma.com. My confidence won't be boosted at all (as I sit here in my Barbi slippers listening to the soothing tones of Barry Manilow from my Media Player), knowing this newsletter makes a slam dunk into your trash bin on a regular basis.

Onward and upward as they say, and here's hoping that your wine journey is both ripe and fruitful!

Cheers,
Sandi

P.S - A sincere and heartfelt thank you to all those that sent me words of praise and encouragement on the Web Site Launch Newsletter last month. I do appreciate hearing from you!

 
Restaurant Wine Lists Demystified

Place: A well-established, reputable bistro restaurant in any mid-sized town with an extensive wine list including wines by-the-glass and bottle offerings.

When: A weeknight evening.

Who: A gentleman entertaining a female business client vying for more of her company's business. He is attempting to appear 'cool, wise and wine-savvy.'

"Linda, the wasabi-infused sea bass is positively divine. And the wine list here has received rave reviews. Do you know much about wine? I dabble a bit, myself…"

My thought is interrupted as I watch our server approach with his quick, efficient gait – surely he means business.

"Good evening folks. How are you tonight?" He directs his smile to each of us but rests his gaze on my face. With his arm extended and his palm face up he points to the wine list on the table; which I haven't even looked at yet.

"May I interest you in some wine with your meal this evening?"

He straightens himself and places his hands together behind his back – a man of confidence ready to pontificate on wine to the unassuming guests before him. Should I fake it? Should I sound intelligent and really impress him with my knowledge of the… 'Latour from the Côtes de Beaune'… as I lean in and read this directly from the wine list? Or should I have Linda order and allow myself a scapegoat?

"We'll have a bottle of your house red." There, I did it. I'm safe now.

"Sir, we have two house reds available… a wonderfully balanced merlot from a fine Chilean producer and a cabernet sauvignon from the R.H Phillips estate…perhaps…"

Jeez! Here we go…

Sound familiar? Restaurant wine lists don't need to be intimidating – in fact they're not meant to be. Let me dispel some of the mystery for you.

There are basically six different types of lists that you will encounter:

1. The Traditional – here you have the wines listed by reds and whites in ascending price, with the necessary producer, country, vintage and region information - fairly straight forward. Most often patrons will chose a wine they are familiar with and have probably tasted before.

2. Varietal Focus – these are lists that have kindly categorized the wines by grape varietal (for example, under merlot, a list of producers, regions and country with corresponding price). Again, patrons will choose a grape varietal they know and like. Why mess with a good thing? The benefit to this type of list is that if you like California chardonnays, this might give you leave to try one from New Zealand or Chile.

3. The Cosmopolitan – Wines are listed by style (for example, full-bodied reds, light and fruity reds, full-flavoured oaky whites, etc). This newer style of list allows the consumer to better match a wine with their meal – the general rule is full-flavoured, richer dishes pair better with a similar wine and vice versa.

4. The Market Savvy – Directly within the menu, suggested reds and/or whites either by the bottle or glass, are listed under each menu item. Classic case in point, East Side Marios. This is a very user-friendly way for the quintessential vacillator. This style is very attractive for patrons that want a different wine with their appetizer than with their main course.

5. The Classic – Wines are listed by country, in a leather-bound book brought to you by the 'Sommelier.' This is the oenophile's dream. Pages upon pages of classic, pricey, much sought-after producers from well-known regions and vineyards. Found usually in the more up-scale, pricier restaurants. Downside? Your guest may be asleep, face down on the table by the time you've finished reading it.

6. The Budgeter's Spreadsheet – the restaurateur/sommelier has listed wines by price point and offers both reds and whites in each of these categories.

If you decide to order the house wine because the choices are too intimidating or it's just the easiest solution – I caution you. Most house wines are generally of inferior quality, screw-tops found at the local LCBO, and have a mark-up of more than 100%. You are far better to tell the server the style of wine you prefer and ask for their suggestion. You will likely spend a bit more, but get much better value.

If you are unfamiliar with most of the wines on the list and are up for a little experimentation, try the wines by-the-glass. Most restaurants will offer a wine by-the-glass in the wine list from a few selected bottles. This is often a great way to try something new and pair each course with a different wine especially if you and your companion have different tastes (one wants a white, the other a red). Be forewarned however, most wines by-the-glass are more expensive if you compare to buying the bottle. But again, what is the aim? To try something new at relatively low risk? Or to be price conscious? Most restaurants serve five or six ounce pours as the average.

Many top restaurants have knowledgeable and trained servers or a dedicated wine steward or 'sommelier.' Take advantage of their expertise to enhance your dining experience. If you can view the server as your ally, you will likely have a more memorable dining experience. Or at the very least, if you feign ignorance in a wine-related instance, a good server will help in any way - or find someone who can.

When I come across a wine that I've never tasted myself but would like to try, I will ask the sommelier or server to provide me with the tasting notes or ask if they've tried the wine themselves. There is nothing worse than ordering a bottle of wine and not liking it. This way, you look like you know what you're doing - and if the server doesn't know the tasting notes offhand, you've bought yourself more time to make a decision while they are gone.

If all else fails and you're still truly intimidated, order a Beaujolais or Pinot Noir – they pair nicely with just about anything, including fish. And if you really want to look like you know what you're doing, ask to have it slightly chilled (this brings out its fruity characteristics).

Here are eight questions to ask about a wine in your next restaurant outing:

1. What is the grape variety or blend?
2. Where is this wine from and who is the producer?
3. Is this wine full, medium or light bodied?
4. Is it dry, off-dry or sweet?
5. What does this wine taste like? What is its flavour profile?
6. Ask for a wine similar in character to your usual preference - eg: I generally drink full-bodied, spicy Shiraz's – what is a comparable wine from your list?
7. Will this wine match our food choices? Is there a better selection?
8. Do you have any bottles of this wine open? May I have a sample before ordering a bottle? (no guarantee they will do this, but it won't hurt to ask)

And last, but definitely not least, enjoy your company and your meal.

Bon Appetit!