Wine...The Spice of Life
The Vineyard Press Newsletter


April 7, 2005


Hello Wine Enthusiast,

Spring is finally here! And with it come all the wonderful smells, aromas and memories of springtimes past. Spring also means a busier social calendar. Is it any wonder that people want to get out and get-together more when the weather is warmer, the birds are chirping and the dogs are out en masse? I don't know about you, but my cooking habits change too. I become more creative and I find myself cooking less of those fat laden comfort foods. That's why I've made this edition of the Vineyard Press all about wine as a spice in your cooking, your pantry and in your life! I can't think of a better way to bring in spring than with a fantastic meal and accompanying wine. Heck, who needs an excuse?

Cork and Karma is also hosting a spectacular three course Tuscan dinner with matching Tuscan wines on May 1st. For those that live in Montreal, I hope you can make it (please see details below under the Events Section).

As always, cheers to you and yours and remember 'spring is all about celebrating the fresh and new'. So what's fresh and new in your life?

Cheers,
Sandi

P.S - Please feel free to forward this wine newsletter to anyone you think may enjoy. For those that have forwarded on to others, thanks. And if you would rather not continue to receive this newsletter, you may unsubscribe at the bottom. I will honour all unsubscribe requests.


Wine...The Spice of Life!

"Cuisine is the aroma of love between spices and wine is just another spice," says Enrico Apuzzo, Chef and co-owner of La Famiglia Ristorante in St-Lazare, Quebec. This month I took some time with Enrico to really uncover his personal philosophy and nuances with wine in his kitchen. At a recent dinner at this restaurant, I got to experience first-hand his expertise with wine as a main cooking ingredient. But before I share Enrico's Secrets, what's in your pantry?

Which wine should I cook with?

The simple answer – the wine you plan on drinking with your meal should be the wine you use in the dish. I like to choose the wine first and then make dinner. Seems simplistic, but it works. By taking this approach, you allow a consistency of flavours between the wine and the food that really works!

Once you've decided on the wine you want to serve, why not incorporate the natural flavours of the wine into the dish? Start by picking a mainstream white or red wine. Let's say you pick an Australian Shiraz. These wines are typically packed with forward red berry fruits and tons of pepper spice. Try serving it with a dish that will bring out these fruity, peppery notes such as a grilled Strip loin steak with a peppercorn sauce? Or what about an herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand packed with the quintessential mineral, herb and grassy notes so famous for these wines? And partner it with a dish with herbal highlights - such as salmon in a dill or cilantro sauce? Be creative and use your imagination. I also recommend buying an extra bottle of the wine so you can 'freely' use it in your dish.

There is another class of wine that is very commonly added to dishes, even Enrico Apuzzo's, and these are fortified wines such as Sherry, Port, Vermouth, and Marsala. Typically sweeter, more concentrated and with higher alcohol content, these wines are usually added at the end of the cooking process. The reason they are called fortified wines is that an additional neutral grain spirit (i.e. extra alcohol) has been added to the fermented wine before they are aged. This extra alcohol helps preserve the wine and develop some of the complexities during the aging. It's important to note that each of these wines has individual characteristics that make it unique, such as sherry, which ranges from delicate and dry to sweet. Be careful when choosing one for cooking, as you wouldn't want to use a sweet Sherry in a dish when a dry one would be better. Some Sherries have a nut-like quality from the aging process, while others are bitter with a more pronounced bite. Ports can be sweet, and good for fruit dishes or desserts. Vermouth differs in that herbs and spices have been steeped into the wine, giving it a very unique flavor. Dry Vermouth would be good in place of a white wine. Sweet Vermouth would be a great addition to a fruit dessert that has a hint of herbs in it. You get the idea.

Wines to avoid when cooking?

Have you ever seen the infamous 'cooking wine' at your local supermarket? This stuff is essentially an overpriced salt and vinegar concoction. You'd be better off using the 'boxed wine' and staying as far away from the 'cooking wine' as possible. Now I know what some of you are thinking, 'boxed wine in my dinner, how barbaric!' I would rather you use boxed wine than the cooking wine - remember - boxed wine is air-tight and can keep for a long time without having it 'turn' on you. Ultimately, the best choice is what you enjoy and after that, the nice Barolo you've been saving for that special dinner. Either way, I'm a real advocate of experimentation in the kitchen. Test it out for yourself. Next time you make a simple pasta dish with a tomato sauce, use a boxed wine and compare with the lovely Chianti the next. See for yourself what differences you notice.

What happens to wine as it cooks?

As alcohol evaporates, flavours concentrate. The amount of alcohol that evaporates depends on how much liquid is in the dish and at what point you add the wine. In general, up to 60% of the alcohol could remain if you add the wine to a broth or heavily water based dish. Alcohol does not become concentrated as you cook the wine down - the other flavors do. So a fruity wine will give a more intense fruit flavor to the final dish, a sweet wine will provide sweetness, and that taboo "cooking wine" will only end up concentrating the salt, making your food saltier.

When should I use wine?

There are three main places in the cooking process where wine would reasonably fit in – marinating, deglazing and in the end as a final touch.

A classic example of a marinade is for barbequing. The acid and alcohol in the wine tenderizes tougher cuts of meat before cooking. Both act on the tough fibers in meat, "softening" them, so they take less time to cook and develop the succulent rich flavor of a braised meat. The resulting liquid, which contains flavors from the meat and vegetables in the marinade, is used to make the sauce.

The most common use of wine is for deglazing a sauté pan and using that as a base for a sauce. The amount of time to spend reducing wine is more dependent on the color of the wine than anything else (unless alcohol is a concern). White wine needs to be reduced just a small amount, to burn off most of the alcohol. Red wine should be reduced until it is almost gone. Red wine needs more reduction or your food will be ... well, purple. Think of a red wine stain. It really is purple. By reducing the color compounds, as well as the flavor, the result is a deeper, richer red that will blend better with the browns of a rich stock. Think of the browned chicken that was in the pan with accompanying garlic, onion, mushroom and peppers. Add a splash of wine here to bring up all the tasty browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, and presto: sauce. I'm salivating just thinking about it.

Wines are also used at the very end of the cooking process – a good example is Marsala. This fortified wine is not added when the pan is deglazed after sautéing veal; it is added to "finish" the sauce. That way the sweetness is not overpowering, but the subtle aromas are heightened by the heat of the dish. For the same reason, Sherry is added to a cream soup right at the very end. This is usually the process for fortified wines, so the subtle notes from the prolonged barrel or bottle aging come out in the aroma.

Enrico Apuzzo, Chef and co-owner of La Famiglia Ristorante, has some great insights and philosophies on using wine in his kitchen. Enrico is of Neapolitan descent and a truly passionate Italian chef - complete with grandiose expressive hand gestures and infectious enthusiasm in his rapid speech. Over a sumptuous linguine lunch (recipe to follow), I asked Enrico about his heritage, how it influences his culinary art and his thoughts on wine and its place in the kitchen.

Sandi – Enrico, tell me about yourself. What practical and hands-on experience has made you a master of Italian cuisine?

Enrico – I've been working in the kitchen since I was ten, so that would make me...well, an experienced Chef (he chuckles) I went to the St. Pius X Culinary Institute here in Montreal. My laundry list of restaurants is quite long - started my career at Aldo's on La Montagne, then Chez Antoine in what is now the Hotel des Gouverneurs, then Sergio's, then Dolce Luna, then Linguini's, then Prima Luna, then Ischia and finally here at La Famiglia. We are from the Naples area of central Italy which is famous for its pizza. A lot of people think that pizza was invented by the Americans, but that's not true. The Italians invented it – Napolitano Pizza with fresh tomato, anchovies and parmesan on a thin crust - a classic combination.

S – What is the role of wine in your cuisine?

E – It has a big role. Wine gives food that extra touch, taste and character. A piece of veal is a piece of veal, but with wine, it becomes a work of art. And it makes a difference what you use, too. It matters to your taste buds. Try using champagne with risotto instead of a broth.

S – What types of wines do you use?

E – It depends what I'm making, but I use everything. I use fortified wines like Amaretto, Frangelico, Sambuca, Galiano, Grand Marnier... mostly for desserts but just the other day; I used Sambuca with my veal and Frangelico with my fish to add that touch of sweetness and nutty taste. For wines with my meats I use: Barolos, Merlot, Sangiovese and Brunellos. It all works! I think adding the wine that you will be drinking with the meal into the dish is better. Using a better quality wine gives more character to the meal. Wine is personal - like a cigar – someone might like a Coheba or Montecristo, so you have to use what you like.

S – What advice or wisdom would you like to impart to people that maybe don't like wine and how they can use it in their cooking?

E – For those that don't like red wine, or want to experiment – adding wine into your cooking will give your mind a different character and taste to associate with the wine. It's a great way to introduce your palate to new sensations. For example, some people don't like raw gorgonzola but in a pasta cooked, they love it. When gorgonzola is cooked, it takes on a smoother character and tastes more refined. The same is true with wine. I would guess that for people that don't like red wine, if they try it in their cooking for awhile and then try a glass sometime later, they may be surprised.

S – What personal philosophy governs how you cook, what you cook and your approach to cooking?

E – Wine without food wouldn't work. Live life with passion. But more important than all that, life is a table.

S – What do you mean 'life is a table'?

E – Where did you meet your husband? A table right? When you go for a bank loan? A table right? Where were some of the most meaningful conversations you ever had? At a table right? Life is a table and what better place for a bottle of wine? Tables are very important in life. My job is to fill that table and that is what I do best! Without food and wine, where is passion in life?

***

Well Enrico, I couldn't have said it better myself. Passion for food, wine and life is my philosophy too!

Here is a fantastic and easy recipe courtesy of Chef Enrico. It was a creamy, nutty taste sensation in my mouth. And the saffron and green zucchini add loads of colour. I hope you have the chance to try it at home.

Linguine with Saffron and Zucchini

Ingredients

¼ cup butter
1 cup julienne zucchini
1 heaping tablespoon saffron
2 ozs Melini, Orvieto Classico (or use any of your favourite white wine)
¼ cup 35% cream
Pinch salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ of a 900 g package of linguini cooked al dente
Parmesan cheese (optional)
Chopped Italian parsley (for garnish)

Directions

Add butter and zucchini to a sauté pan and stir over medium high heat until butter is completely melted. Add in the saffron and salt and pepper. Stir until well incorporated. Add the Melini and cream. Reduce for about 5-7 minutes. The saffron should be well infused into the sauce so it's now taking on an orangish colour. Add the cooked linguini to the pan and heat through. Serve immediately with parmesan and chopped parsley. Serves 2.

'Buon Appetito'